Tromsø lies about 350 km north of the Arctic Circle, right under the northern lights oval. In December the town has Christmas lights, snow and almost no daylight, and on a clear night the aurora can dance over the rooftops. This guide explains when to look, where to go, which way to chase the lights suits you, and what to know about the Christmas days themselves.
Christmas in Tromsø at a glance
| December in Tromsø | |
|---|---|
| Daylight | Polar night: no sunrise, a few hours of blue twilight around midday |
| Aurora season | Late August to early April; December is in the darkest part |
| Best hours | Any time it is dark, often strongest about 20:00–02:00 |
| Temperature in town | About −2 °C on average, nights often −4 to −5 °C; inland it can drop below −20 °C |
| Christmas Eve | Shops close around 13:00; many restaurants closed or set menus 24–25 December |
| Airport to the centre | 10–15 minutes by car |
The polar night: dark, but not black
From about 27 November to 15 January the sun stays below the horizon in Tromsø. That does not mean it is pitch dark all day. Around midday you get a few hours of soft blue and pink twilight, which is beautiful for photos. Snow and Christmas lights make the town bright.
For the northern lights, the long darkness is good news: you have many hours each day to see them, not just a short window late at night.
When can you see the northern lights?
The aurora needs three things: activity from the sun, darkness and a clear sky. In December you always have darkness, so the clouds are the real question.
- Check two forecasts. The aurora forecast tells you how active the lights may be. The cloud forecast on yr.no tells you whether you can see them. A clear sky with a low aurora forecast often beats a cloudy sky with a high one.
- Stay at least 3 nights. Weather on the coast changes quickly. More nights give you more chances.
- Look up early. In the polar night the lights can appear in the afternoon. Activity is often strongest between about 20:00 and 02:00.
Where to see the aurora
In town. If the aurora is strong, you can see it from Tromsø itself. Walk away from the brightest streets, for example to the Prestvannet lake on the island, the Telegrafbukta beach in the south, or take the Fjellheisen cable car to Storsteinen above the town. It is open daily until midnight, with shorter hours on Christmas Eve, so check fjellheisen.no over the holidays.
Outside town. The best displays are away from the city lights. The coast west of Tromsø (Kvaløya, Sommarøy) has dark skies and sea views. When the coast is cloudy, the inland valleys towards Skibotn and the Finnish border are often clearer. That can mean a drive of 1–3 hours each way on winter roads, and the road near the border can close in bad weather.
Three ways to chase the lights
| Way | Price | Good | Less good |
|---|---|---|---|
| Big bus tour | About 1 200–1 500 kr per person | Cheapest, guide and hot drinks | Large groups, fixed route and stops |
| Small-group minibus tour | About 1 800–2 500 kr per person | Expert guide, photos often included | Books out early in December |
| Private car with your own driver | From 860 kr per hour per car (Tromsø) | Your own schedule, a local driver who knows the aurora spots, warm car | You pay for the car, not per seat; no photographer included |
Tours are the right choice if you want a guide who explains the lights and takes your photo. Book early: Christmas week is one of the busiest weeks of the year in Tromsø, and tour prices are often higher over Christmas and New Year.
A private driver suits families, groups and photographers who want to decide for themselves. You choose when to leave, where to stop and when to go home. With Turismo's hourly hire a local driver picks you up at your hotel. Our drivers know the aurora spots around Tromsø, follow the cloud and aurora forecasts, and take you to where the sky is clear. For a chase inland, book 6–8 hours.
An example: a Business Van for 6 hours costs 7 920 kr for up to 7 people, about 1 130 kr per person. Ask for child seats in the booking notes, and nobody waits in the cold for a bus. See the cars in our fleet.
Driving yourself is possible, but think twice. The roads are icy and dark, there may be reindeer and moose on the road, and you will drive back in the middle of the night when you are tired. If you are not used to Nordic winter driving, let someone else drive.
What is open over Christmas?
Christmas in Norway is celebrated on Christmas Eve, 24 December. Plan around these days:
- 24 December: most shops close around 13:00. Many restaurants are closed or serve a set Christmas menu. Book Christmas dinner at your hotel well in advance.
- 25 and 26 December: public holidays. Most shops are closed until 27 December, and buses run on a holiday timetable.
- 31 December: at midnight, fireworks light up the sky over the town and the strait. Fjellheisen and the waterfront are good places to watch. Shops close early.
- 1 January: public holiday, little is open.
Many aurora tours run on New Year's Eve. There are fewer departures on Christmas Eve, so check with the operator and book early. Taxis and pre-booked transfers run every day of the holidays.
Things to try: the New Year's Eve concert in the Arctic Cathedral (see ishavskatedralen.no for Christmas services and concerts), traditional Christmas food such as ribbe (pork belly) or pinnekjøtt (lamb ribs), and a walk through the lit-up centre.
Getting to Tromsø
Most international travellers fly via Oslo, with direct flights to Tromsø of about 1 h 50 min to 2 h. Some airlines fly directly to Tromsø from other European cities in winter. If you have a stopover in Oslo, our guide to Oslo Airport and the city centre helps.
Tromsø Airport is close to the centre, about 10–15 minutes by car. There is an airport bus, and taxis wait outside arrivals. A pre-booked transfer from Tromsø Airport has a fixed price per car; the driver tracks your flight, waits in arrivals with a name sign and helps with skis and luggage.
Tromsø → Tromsø city centre
From 390 kr · Fixed price per car · flight tracked · driver waits in arrivals
Which one is right for you?
- Want a photographer and a lecture on the aurora? A small-group tour.
- On a budget? A big bus tour, plus evenings by the Prestvannet lake when the forecast is good.
- Family with children or grandparents? A private van: warm car, child seats, and you go home when the children are tired.
- Photographers? A private car, so you can stay as long as the lights last.
- Group of 8 to 17? One VIP Sprinter for the whole group.
Frequently asked questions
Is Christmas a good time to see the northern lights in Tromsø?
Yes. December is in the darkest part of the season, so you have many hours each day to see the lights. The weather is the main risk, so stay several nights and keep one or two evenings free.
What time are the northern lights best in December?
Any time it is dark and clear. Activity is often strongest between about 20:00 and 02:00, but in the polar night the lights can also appear in the afternoon.
Do aurora tours run on Christmas Eve?
Many operators run tours on New Year's Eve. Christmas Eve departures are fewer, so check with the operator and book early. A private driver can be booked for any date.
How cold is Tromsø at Christmas?
About −2 °C on average in town, with nights often −4 to −5 °C. It is much colder inland, where the sky is often clearer. Wear wool layers, a warm jacket, a hat, mittens and winter boots with a good grip.
Can I hire a car with a driver to chase the northern lights?
Yes. With hourly hire in Tromsø a local driver picks you up at your hotel and takes you to where the sky is clear. Our drivers know the aurora spots and follow the forecasts. Book 6–8 hours for a chase inland.